Well, I very well cannot just post things in this blog this year without at least one mention of what I hope to accomplish in 2014 in the climbing department, can I? This is why this short post will explain such aspirations. By doing this, will these be seen at the end of the year with either satisfaction or disappointment? Not only would that be very black-and-white, but it would also suggest that I climb for the goals and not the process, and this is not true for me. So even though I do admit that I aspire to improve my climbing (and I don´t think this is a bad thing, as the challenge of being able to do elaborate, complicated, physically demanding movement is part of what I love about climbing, together with things like the people that you meet, the places that it takes you, the empty-mindedness it induces, and other such usual suspects), I fully expect to feel both satisfied and challenged with whatever outcome I have, as well as enthusiastic for the future, not unlike I am feeling right now. Also, I find that it is good to have concrete goals in order to help motivation in training- like my strategy of always having a climbing trip planned in the not-so-distant future, which has always motivated me to train as hard as I can (although I admit that I enjoy training too). So without further ado, here are my climbing objectives of 2014:
1. Groovy (28/5.13a) - An Australian climbing icon that is the preface of Groove Train (33/5.14b), sometimes called the best sport route in Australia. It being more or less at the upper end of my current level, the reasons to climb this are obvious!
2. Ammagamma stand start (V8) - This one´s pretty ambicious, given that the hardest I´ve done is a single V6, but again, this is one of the nicest boulders in Australia, possibly even the World (at least the V13 version is)! If there is a glimmer of a chance of me getting on this, I will! If I send it, it would be extra sweet...
3. The Nevin Rule (V7) - Another classic Australian boulder, with seemingly sculpted white sandstone into waves of pure beauty, perfect if it wasn´t because of it´s lack of top-out. Seems like it might be in the realm of what´s possible before I leave Australia... We´ll see!
4. Separation Anxiety (28/5.13a) -To get me started on grade 28, I have chosen a route that is short and bouldery. The reason for this is that I believe that if one can do a short bouldery route at a grade then one can probably more easily build endurance for longer ones at the same grade, as the moves will likely be simpler. This one´s in Mount Coolum, is about 6 meters long, and can be split into 2 V5 boulders, making the boulder grade about V7 or 28. I´ve now done all the moves and I do the top boulder very differently to everybody else, but I never go far from the bolts at all... I´m not sure if this still counts as being part of the route? I´m not sure, but the top part seems like a V5 using my beta, we will see what grade I think it deserves when I (hopefully) send it. Watch the vid here (watch it only when HD viewing is available!):
5. A proper front lever - The next level in ab strength and power. If I can hold a proper one for 5 seconds, I will consider this goal complete.
6. Two full one-arm pull-ups - This one is also ambicious! I can only do an almost full one, but can hardly start the second one.
7. Gasoline Rainbow (28/5.13a) - Being 20+ meters long at Mount Coolum and the classic 28 of the crag, this is the resistance testpiece analog to the power testpiece (Separation Anxiety). I have a feeling this will come easier than Separation though!
8. Weapon of Choice (27/5.12d) - A classic at the grade and because I haven´t done any 27´s, this objective is to get familiar with the grade (there aren´t that many 27´s in QLD).
Happy climbing!
Congratulations! Antonio
ReplyDeleteПоздравляем! Антонио
Mil Gracias! :D :D
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